Tartan

A tartan is a pattern consisting of crisscrossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colors. Tartans originated in woven cloth, but are now used in many other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Celtic countries, especially Scotland. Kilts almost always have tartan patterns.

An example of a tartan: the Abercrombie pattern.

In the modern era, specific tartans have become associated with Scottish clans or Scottish families, or simply institutions who are associated in some way with a Scottish heritage.

Textile analysis of fabric from Indo-European Tocharian graves in Western China has shown similarities to the Iron Age civilizations of Europe dating from 800 BC, including woven twill and tartan patterns strikingly similar to Celtic tartans from Northwest Europe. The Celts wore coats set with a pattern of checks close together and of varied colours, similar in fashion to the Scottish, Irish, and Welsh tartans. Tartan patterns have been used in British and Irish weaving for centuries. A possible predecessor dating from the 3rd century, found near the Antonine Wall and known as the "Falkirk sett", has a checked pattern in two colours identified as the undyed brown and white of the native Soay sheep. The fabric had been used as a stopper in an earthenware pot containing a hoard of silver coins.

For many centuries, the patterns were loosely associated with the weavers of a particular area, though it was common for highlanders to wear a number of different tartans at the same time.

The most effective fighters for Jacobitism were the supporting Scottish clans, leading to an association of tartans with the Jacobite cause. Efforts to pacify the Highlands led to the 1746 Dress Act banning tartans with exemptions for the military and the gentry. Soon after the Act was repealed in 1782 Highland Societies of landowners were promoting "the general use of the ancient Highland dress". William Wilson & Sons of Bannockburn became the foremost weaving manufacturer around 1770 as suppliers of tartan to the military. Wilson corresponded with his agents in the highlands to get information and samples of cloth from the clan districts to enable him to reproduce "perfectly genuine patterns" and recorded over 200 setts by 1822, many of which were tentatively named. The Cockburn Collection of named samples made by Wilsons was put together between 1810 and 1820 and is now in the Mitchell Library in Glasgow. At this time many setts were simply numbered, or given fanciful names such as the "Robin Hood" tartan.

By the 19th century the Highland romantic revival inspired by James Macpherson's Ossian poems and the writings of Walter Scott led to wider interest, with clubs like the Celtic Society of Edinburgh welcoming Lowlanders. The pageantry invented for the 1822 visit of King George IV to Scotland brought a sudden demand for tartan cloth and made it the national dress of the whole of Scotland, with the invention of many new clan tartans to suit.

William Mosman: portrait John Campbell of the Bank, 1749 with a red tartan.

The present official Clan Campbell tartans are green.

Source: Wikipedia and compiled by M.Maryns

Interesting links

Tartans of Scotland

http://www.lochcarron.com/reiver.htm

Tartans for Non-Scots

Any person may wear tartan. Both Scots and non-Scots can wear the "District" and "National" tartans. There are a number of other tartans that might be selected by citizens of other nations as an alternative to any clan or family tartan.

UNITED KINGDOM: "Tyneside", "Devon" "Durham", "Somerset", "Cornish National", "St. Piran", "Ulster Tartan", "Welsh National", or "Manx National".

IRELAND: "Tare" or "Murphy", "Clodagh", "Ulster Tartan"

CANADA: The "Canadian Centennial Tartan" serves as a "national" tartan for all Canadians. Each Province and Territory has its own official tartan. The attractive asymmetrical "Maple Leaf" tartan is often seen in ladies' clothing but is not recommended for Scottish dress.

AUSTRALIA: The "Australia" tartan.

UNITED STATES: A number of the states have official or unofficial tartans "Maine", "Carolina", "Georgia", "Ohio", "Idaho", "Washington", "Texas Blue Bonnet", and "Pennsylvania". One city, "Tulsa", has adopted a tartan. There is a little-known tartan designed for all citizens of the United States, the "America", and several setts associated with military organizations and universities: "West Point, "The Citadel", "Leatherneck".

SOUTH AMERICANS might consider wearing the "Cochrane" tartan in honour of the naval hero who founded the navies of several nations and led them in the wars of independence (Brazil, Argentina, Chile).

SPAIN: Spaniards with Celtic roots can choose the "Galicia" tartan. Others might select the "Wellington" in honour of the Duke who directed the joint British-Spanish liberation of the nation from Napoleon.

PORTUGAL: The Duke of Wellington was commander-in-chief of the Portuguese Army in its struggle to free the nation from the French. The "Wellington" tartan is a good choice.

FRANCE: The French supported the Jacobite cause and the Jacobite tartan is appropriate. French soldiers died at Culloden and the "Culloden" tartan honours them.

AUSTRIA: Austrians could choose the "Leslie" tartan in honour of the Scottish expatriate soldier who rose to general rank in the Hapsburg army.

GERMANY: Germans remember that Prince Albert, lover of the Highlands and tartan designer, was a German. The "Coburg" tartan was designed in his honour and is a good choice.

NETHERLANDS: There is a registered "Dutch" tartan which represents the Netherlands, honoring both the House of Orange and members of the "Mac Kay" family who have been prominent citizens of both nations.

RUSSIA: Russians might choose the "Muskova" tartan or the "Gordon" in honour of the Scottish general who modernized the army of Peter the Great -- and who was killed leading it against the Swedes.

SCANDINAVIA: The "Mackay" or "Munro" tartans are appropriate in remembrance of the thousands of Scots led by these clans into service in the armies of Sweden and Denmark in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

ITALY: The "Prince Charles Edward Stuart" tartan is appropriate for "Bonnie Prince Charley" was born and died a resident of Italy.

Regimental Tartans

Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders                                                  Black Watch/Government

                                                                                                then Campbell of Cawdor
Argyll Fencibles                                                                         Campbell of Cawdor
Argyll Highlanders (Old 74th)                                                       Lamont
Argyllshire Highlanders, 91^st                                                        Black Watch
Atholl Highlanders                                                                       Murray of Atholl
Auckland Highland Rifle Volunteers (NZ)                                       Black Watch
Baluch Regiment, Pakistan                                                         Baluch Regt Tartan
Black Watch of Canada                                                              Black Watch
Black Watch Pipers                                                                    Royal Stewart
Black Watch(The Royal Highland Regt)                                        Black Watch
Bombay Volunteer Rifles ( India)                                                  Stewart Hunting
Breadalbane Fencibles                                                               Campbell of Breadalbane
Byron Regiment (Australia)                                                          Sutherland
Calcutta Scottish (India)                                                             Stewart Hunting
Cameron Highlanders 79th of Foot                                               Cameron of Erracht
Cameronians (Scottish Rifles)                                                     Douglas
Canterbury Scottish Rifle Volunteers (NZ)                                     Gordon
Cape Town Highlanders (SA)                                                       Gordon
Duke of Albany's Own Highlanders (72nd)                                     Prince Charles Edward

                                                                                                 Stewart
Dunedin Highland Rifle Volunteers (NZ)                                         Black Watch
First City Regiment (SA)                                                             Graham of Montrose
Ghurka Rifles (1st)                                                                      Childers
Glasgow Highlanders (HLI)                                                           Black Watch and then

                                                                                                  MacKenzie until 1967
Glenalmond School Scotland                                                        Murray of Atholl
Gordon Highlanders                                                                     Gordon
Highland Light Infantry                                                                  MacKenzie
Highlanders                                                                                 MacKenzie/Cameron

                                                                                                  Erracht/Gordon
Highlanders of Canada (48th)                                                         Davidson/Stewart of Fingask
Kaffrarian Rifles (SA)                                                                     MacKenzie
Kimberley Scottish                                                                       MacKenzie
King's Own Scottish Borderers (TA) Pipers                                     Erskine Red/Green till 1940

                                                                                       then Buccleuch
King's Own Scottish Borderers                                                       Leslie/Royal Stewart
Liverpool Scottish (TA)                                                                   Forbes
London Irish Rifles (TA)                                                                  Saffron
London Scottish (TA)                                                                     Hodden Grey
Loretto School Scotland                                                                Stewart Hunting
Lovat Scouts                                                                                Fraser Hunting
Merchiston Castle School Scotland                                                Cameron of Erracht
Natal Mounted Rifles (Soputh Africa)pipe band                                 Douglas
New South Wales Scottish (Aus)                                                    Black Watch
New Zealand 1st Armoured Car Regt                                               Black Watch
Pretoria Highlanders (SA)                                                               Stewart Hunting
Prince Alfred's Guard 1874 (SA)                                                      Cameron of Erracht
Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders                                                 Cameron of Erracht
Queen's Own Highlanders                                                               Cameron of

Click here for tartan-patterns

Compiled by door Martine Maryns